They came in and the department attendant opened the box and mixed them with other CX300 Selects. Years back I ordered a dozen CX300 Selects. The next dozen may weigh lighter or heavier.I've had a dozen weigh in at 375 grs and another dozen weigh in at 383 grs. Sure, I've had to shoot arrows a few times to pass my test.īoxed or bagged arrows are pre sorted for weight and straightness and that's what I buy. I don't how many dozens I've built but all have to pass my test and my test is that they hit the X ring of 5 spot from 30 yards. It takes quite a bit to have a bad arrow, say. I have a spine tester gathering dust on the back work table. I'm probably not doing a good job of explaining but I've went and done a bit of research while reading replies here. This would seem to be backed up by my observation so far that the arrow alignment label put on by Victory more often than not is on the bottom of the arrow when it's deflecting the least. The resin is opposite, weak in tension and strong in compression and one of the reasons why a composite (carbon fiber is a composite consisting of the carbon fiber in a resin) is strong, it combines the strength of two materials.Īt this point I believe that when the arrow is deflecting the least that the strong part of the arrow (the "spine") is on the bottom because that is the side experiencing tension (and the top compression), since carbon fiber is stronger in tension, the bottom of the arrow is resisting the force from the weight more strongly than the top (which is in tension and contributing less to the resistance to deflection). Now, in my research (and as I recall from materials science many years ago in engineering school), carbon fiber is strong in tension and weak in compression. 292" and let go, it will spin around on its own to where it deflects more (.300"). IOW if I find the spot where the arrow deflects. Similarly there are many ways to place the spine- I used to put the spine on top to minimize shaft droop during the swing and the direction of the NBP deflection along the swing path.Ĭlick to expand.I'm probably not doing a good job of explaining but I've went and done a bit of research while reading replies here.Īs fcmd posted, I find that there is a neutral point which is opposite of the side with less deflection. But again, the take home is that the spine is not found on the axis of deflection, it is at 90* to the NBP direction/axis as it prevents bend. (One can ignore the weak and refer to the strong as "the spine".)Īnyway I don't know how y'alls spine finder works, but hopefully this "visual" will help you understand what your numbers mean. Carbon shafts (at least golf) typically have two spines: one "strong" and one "weak" again at 90* to the NBP deflection. The spine is on one of the other sides that did not bend. Neither the side of the shaft under compression (top of the "U") nor the side under expansion (bottom of the "U") is the spine. You can then fine tine the spine with a weight on one end and FLO it, but that is irrelevant here.) My golf shaft spine finder is too big for arrows. (With golf club shafts one could twist the shaft under tension and feel a noticeable hump as one tries to twist it out of it's least resistence. All shafts under pressure will find the NBP. If one puts any shaft between two bearings and then uses a third bearing in the middle to stress the shaft, it will bend to and find the least resistance. I don't know how these machines work, but I used to build golf clubs for over 20 years and used to spine align all my clubs.Īs an example and for you to draw your own conclusions on how y'alls finder works: It sounds to me like yours are all marked correctly. It may depend on which employee is running the machine when the shafts get those marks. Some say they're perfect while, others have found variations. I've read mixed reports on Victory's spine alignment marks. I don't have have a spine tester, but I've had very good luck getting consistent bare shaft flights, when nock tuning prior to fletching, using the alignment marks, all in the same direction. I suggest you pick one direction and stay consistent over time, unless you like to experiment, like me. Now I do so on the few older shafts I fletched down, as I refletch them, so different batches will shoot the same. For a couple of years I've been fletching them with all alignment marks on top. It really doesn't matter, as long as they're all the same, but different batches all up vs all down will fly slightly differently from each other. (All mine are VAP's and VAP TKO's Elites and Gamers). In the past, I have fletched different batches spine up and spine down. Click to expand.From what you're describing, it sounds like the stiffest side corresponds correctly to the alignment mark-when in up position.
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